By Pat Tanumihardja, author of the stunning Asian Grandmother's Cookbook
As Sustainarella wrapped a miso-marinated salmon fillet in silver foil, she found herself wishing for a "green" option.
Poof.
Her sustainability godmother appeared—with a sheaf of green, glossy banana leaves.
For generations, communities around the globe have been bundling fish, poultry, rice dumplings and coconut custards in banana leaves. Ingredients wrapped in the protective leaves are delicately cooked, and the gentle steaming action within ensures they are moist and flavorful. Plus, the food is imbued with a subtle, grassy scent and flavor.
For a jump-start in the kitchen, try smoothing curry paste over salmon or red snapper fillets, or wrap chicken seasoned with soy sauce, black pepper and chopped cilantro together with any mushroom in season. Once bundled in banana leaves, you can grill, steam or bake these all-natural packages.
At dinner parties, serve guests individual portions and carefully slice the packets open at table for a dramatic presentation.
Banana leaf jitters? Novices need not worry with these tips:
Choose pliable greens with no signs of browning.
Banana leaves are fragile so handle with care. If necessary, dip in boiling water for a few seconds to soften. Trim to desired size and remove the spine.
To store leftover leaves (you'll inevitably have some), wrap them in a secured plastic bag and freeze.
Remove food packets from the heat sooner rather than later. The ingredients will continue to cook in the leaves.
Now go: banana leaves await you at an Asian or Mexican market, or on a nearby tree. Your taste buds—and the earth—will thank you.
Did we mention that they're an adventure ingredient?
Coriander-Cumin Steamed Fish Packets
The Goods
4 (6-ounce) Pacific cod fish fillets, about 1-inch thick
Salt
6 tablespoons lemon juice (2 lemons)
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, ground
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, ground
1 cup loosely packed cilantro sprigs
Banana leaves, trimmed to size (leave a roomy 4 inches all around fillet), and wiped with a damp cloth.
The How-To
Note:
Coriander and cumin seeds can be bought already ground. But for better flavor and shelf life, buy the seeds and grind them yourself with a mortar and pestle, or in a spice or coffee grinder.
Slit
fish fillets horizontally (but not all the way through) to create pockets. Rub with salt and 4 tablespoons lemon juice. Set aside.
Pulse
remaining lemon juice, garlic, coriander, cumin, garlic and cilantro in a food processor until a paste forms. Apply spice paste to both sides, filling pockets. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Center
one fish fillet on banana leaf. Fold in left then right side of leaf and roll into a packet. Place seam-side down on a steamer rack or basket to keep leaves from opening. Repeat with remaining fillets and banana leaves.
Fill
large skillet or wok with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower fish packets into steamer, cover and steam for 5 to 6 minutes (open one packet and test for doneness at around 4 minutes). Fish is done when it is opaque in the middle and flakes easily with a fork.
Remove
Remove fish packets from steamer and serve immediately.
Serves
four.