Chih Chung Fang, San Francisco Bay Area
My realization: cauliflower doesn't get any respect.
As far as families go, cauliflower is the forgotten stepsister—while all the other kids are doted on. Case in point: cauliflower is in the same cabbage family as some of our current culinary superstars, like arugula, broccoli rabe, chard, and kale.
And if even the oft-maligned Brussels sprouts (another cabbage family member) are gaining prominence on restaurant menus, isn't it about time for cauliflower? When mid-winter rolls around and you've had root vegetables prepared every single way possible, cauliflower will be at its best, just waiting to be sautéed, seared, baked, and braised.
In the meantime, its mild, nutty flavor plays well with all kinds of sauces and inventions, like my curried créme fraîche. Added bonus: you'll have plenty of créme fraîche left over from this recipe. It's great as a dip for meats and seafood, roasted potatoes, or crudités.
So move over, arugula.
(Serves 4)
The Goods
1 cup sour cream
2 teaspoon curry powder
Juice from 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 small russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
Just enough unsalted chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water to cover
1 head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into evenly-sized florets
1 cup half and half
Chopped cilantro for garnish
Salt and pepper to taste
Cayenne to taste (optional)
The How-To
Whisk together sour cream, curry powder, and lemon juice.
Thin out with a little water until the mixture is of drizzling consistency.
Season with salt and pepper to taste, and more lemon juice if desired.
Add a little cayenne if you want to spice it up a bit.
Store cream mixture in the fridge.
Heat oil in a medium-sized pot over medium heat, then add onion and some salt and pepper, stirring constantly.
Add the garlic when the onion softens, and cook for a couple of minutes. Do not let the mixture brown.
Add the wine, and let it cook down until most of the liquid has cooked off.
Add the potato and enough stock to cover.
Simmer until the potato has a little resistance when poked with a knife.
Add the cauliflower and more stock to just cover, and a good pinch of salt.
Simmer until the potato and cauliflower are both very tender.
Carefully puree the soup in batches in a blender, adding more hot liquid or stock if necessary to make a nice, smooth puree.
Mix in the half and half, season the soup to taste with salt and pepper.
Thin out the soup with a little more stock, if necessary.
Refrigerate if you like; the soup tastes even better the next day. Gently reheat in a pot while stirring; do not let the soup boil.
Ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle with créme fraîche, and sprinkle some chopped cilantro on top.
Chih-Chung Fang creates artisan breads and pastries at Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville.